Private Eyes, They're Watching You

March 12
Vientiane

Thoroughly convinced that I was being watched by Communist government spies waiting to plant drugs on me, or frame me for something else, I did not enjoy my time in Vientiane, the capitol of Laos. I am convinced that it is the sleepiest capitol city on earth. It felt more like Montauk in January. Coming from the nonstop insanity of Hanoi, it was a marked difference. The streets were virtually empty, nobody honked their horns, it was eerily quiet. I took that as a sign that it was too quiet, and resigned to get out of town as quickly as possible.

My first order of business was to change my ticket. I'd flown in to Laos 2 days ahead of schedule, and had been planning to stay in Vientiane for 4 days, making it now a total of 6. No thanks. Paranoia aside, there was absolutely nothing to do in this city. It had actually crossed my mind to try and get out of the country altogether, but I reasoned with myself that I had been granted a visa, I found no suspicious items planted in my bags, so I was probably OK. And besides, Luang Prabang (to the north) was supposed to be spectacular, so I just shortened my time in the country. 2 nights in Vientiane and 3 in Luang Prabang.

At the Lao Airlines HQ, I had an easy time changing my tickets. Total opposite of what happened at airport check in. It seemed too easy. I looked around for cameras and any familiar faces from the flight in. Coast seemed clear but I wasn't taking any chances – I walked away in a different direction than I arrived from. Anyone following me would probably think that I was tripping on acid, because I was probably acting like a total weirdo. But my decision to leave the airline office in a new direction proved to be a good one, because it led me to something I had not seen since I left home- a properly stocked supermarket. It was a mini mart by any standards, but they carried such luxury items as Harpers Bazaar, correctly made croissants, Cotes du Rhone and my new favorite thing: macadamia nut Haagen Das. I got a new sim card and some ice cream and decided to try and like Laos, though I still retired early that night and slept with one eye open.